Dermatologists Say This Affordable Tool Can Reduce Puffiness—Here's Exactly How To Use It (2024)

If you’re at all familiar with social media beauty crazes like slugging or the glass skin trend, the likelihood that you’ve heard of a gua sha tool is pretty high. Gua sha (pronounced "gwah-sha”) is a traditional Chinese medicine technique that incorporates the use of a small, smooth-edged stone to promote improved circulation and blood flow for a clearer complexion. Though there's not much clear clinical data to back up the effectiveness of gua sha, some people—and even some dermatologists—swear by it for a clearer, more sculpted look.

So what exactly is it? “Gua sha, an ancient East Asian healing technique, is now widely used in skincare for its ability to enhance facial health,” says Pooja Rambhia, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. “By using a smooth-edged tool for uni-directional massage, gua sha offers several key benefits, including boosting circulation, lymphatic drainage, and more.”

Meet the experts: Pooja Rambhia, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and New Jersey.

“Gua” actually means “scrape,” but there’s really no scraping involved in this practice. The idea is that by gently running the flat pebble along the skin on a regular basis, the light movements will lead to a more sculpted and toned face. Sounds kinda nice, right? To provide the full scope of benefits and how to use a gua sha, WH tapped two dermatologists for all the details.

What are the different types of gua sha stones?

While all gua sha pebbles essentially serve the same purpose—to reduce puffiness and rejuvenate the skin—they're available in various shapes and sizes for different parts of the face (and the body). Some are shaped like moons or hearts while others have combed edges or divots meant to sculpt or fit to a certain part of the face. All have soft edges that won’t harm the skin and are flat—that is, except for “mushroom” gua shas, which are mostly used in the eye area and have a curvy, knob-like shape.

What are the benefits of using a gua sha stone?

• Improved circulation: Proponents promise that gua sha enhances skin vitality and for a glowier complexion. “Gentle pressure stimulates blood flow, helping to deliver oxygen and nutrients to the skin, can improve radiance and reduce puffiness,” explains Dr. Rambhia.
• Lymphatic drainage: Similar to any other kind of facial massage, the technique’s gentle, massage-like movements, encourage lymphatic drainage, which can “reduce fluid retention and puffiness,” adds Dr. Rambhia.
• Lifted appearance: Regular use can deliver a subtle lifting effect, helping to define the cheekbones and jawline. “Implementing gua sha daily can temporarily give the appearance of improved facial contours by way of reducing facial puffiness,” says Dr. Rambhia.
• Increased product absorption: “Using a gua sha can enhance the absorption of serums and oils,” says board-certified dermatologist, Marisa Garshick, MD. “In turn, this can maximize their effectiveness.”
• Smoother skin texture: Using a gua sha consistently can improve skin texture by promoting cell turnover.
• Reduced fine lines: The practice may diminish the appearance of fine lines through increased collagen as it stimulates the blood flow and activates fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen.

How to use a gua sha stone

Ahead, Dr. Garshick provides a step-by-step guide to using a gua sha correctly for maximum benefits.

Step 1: Cleanse

Before starting, make sure your face is clean to prevent any dirt or oil from being pressed deeper into your skin.

Step 2: Apply a Facial Oil or Serum

Choose a hydrating oil or serum to allow the gua sha stone to glide smoothly over the skin without pulling.

Step 3: Start at the Neck

Using the gua sha stone, begin with gentle upward strokes along the sides of your neck to promote lymphatic drainage and improve circulation. “The neck is often a congested area, and clearing the lymph here helps reduce puffiness in the face,” explains Dr. Garshick.

Step 4: Cheeks and Jawline

Move to the jawline, using the stone to scrape outward from the chin toward the ears in smooth motions. Next, focus on the cheeks, moving from the nose outward toward the temples.

Step 5: Under-Eye Area

Use the stone with very light pressure, sweeping from the inner corner of the eyes outward toward the temples. The skin here is delicate, and gua sha can help reduce puffiness and dark circles without pulling at the skin.

Step 6: Forehead

Start at the center of the forehead and move outward toward the hairline in sweeping motions. This helps smooth fine lines and release tension held in the forehead and between the brows.

Step 7: Finish by Gently Patting the Skin

Once finished, pat any remaining oil into the skin for maximum hydration.

The bottom line: Is investing in a gua sha stone worth it?

While there's little hard-and-fast data to validate the effectiveness of regular massages with a gua sha stone, our experts say that you should notice some results with regular use—even if they are temporary. Plus, there is plenty of research to suggest that regular standardized massage protocols can have significantly positives effects of our psyschological well-being. So, the cost of a gua sha stone seems like a small price to pay for those kind of mind-body benefits.